Last full day. I went with Alan, Glynis and Rachel to the Dohany synagogue this morning. We had been there earlier in the week when we toured the building, saw the memorial and assisted the curator in arranging an exhibit. Today, Shabbat, was a different experience. I was told beforehand that I would have an Aliyah to the torah, but I was also asked to chant the haftarah. What an honor! As I stood on the bimah I again thought about my namesaqke, my grandfather, Paul Lefkowitz. Paul died at an early age while my mother was still a teen. I know little of his life, except that he immigrated to America from Budapest in his teens, lived first with a sister and her family in McKeesport, Pennsylvania (very close to Rachel’s Hungarian family) served in the US army during World War I (a dough boy), married a woman significantly younger and was, by all accounts, a wealthy man. He was religiously observant, yet seems also to have been a bit of a tough guy, as well. He had three daughters whom he adored and who adored him. But, beyond that, I know very little. Why did he leave Budapest? What happened to the rest of his family? My aunt visited in Hungary a few years back and did some research into the family. She gave me some good leads, but I have much research still left. Hopefully, in future years, as I continue in this program, I will find out more information. And so, standing on the bimah, it became a very emotional moment for me. Perhaps this is the exact synagogue that my grandfather celebrated his bar mitzvah? Perhaps he chanted the very same haftarah? I suspect he was more traditional, so he did not attend this synagogue, but, still, it is a possibility. My pleasant thoughts were interrupted as I looked at the rabbi….he was looking at his watch! I had been told by Alan that the service was very quick and I needed to speed it up….not a bad idea as the Kiddush was terrific….cholent (including vegetarian)!
A little bit more about the service. There is an organ and a five man choir. There was a terrific cantor, and I had opportunity to speak with him during Kiddush.. During the week he works for IBM. I shared with him that I appreciated hazanut and even dabbled in hazanut and we discussed some of the great ones (frequently of Hungarian background). I promised him that I would send him some arrangements. Many of his tunes were similar to those done in other synagogues, but he slowed down the tempos in a way that led me to believe that these tempos were how the pieces were originally written. How sad that we often take these wonderful melodies and turn them into something more closely resembling a Prussian march! I was particularly taken by his rendition of L’or V’dor….the organ, the choir and his deep voice were overpowering, and I was essentially moved to tears as he sang out “From generation to generation”…how appropriate that I should do so for these most appropriate words, as I was experiencing my own “Dor L’dor” – “from generation to generation.”
In the late afternnon we did a walking tour of the Jewish ghetto. The guide was spectacular….funny and very informative. She made references to movies and books on subjects relating to the ghetto and Hungarian Jewry, in general, and I will email her to get a complete list. The tour passed by a monument sponsored by the government and dedicated to the “Victims of Nazi Persecution.” It is adorned with an eagle and a statue of the angel Michael. This monument is most known for the protests waged against it. Many of the locals are well aware that, far from being victims, many of the Hungarians were, in fact, collaborators. As such, every day there is a protest in front of the statue, and people put up signs and pictures reminding people of this shameful history. One sign in particular moved me. It was handwritten and said, simply: “My mother died in Auschwitz. Where were you Archangel Michael?”
Our tour ended at the Danube where we had Havdalah in front of the “shoes”….this is a permanent display of bronze shoes on the banks of the river, in memory of those thrown into the Danube by the Hungarian collaborators. (I should add here a fact: Eichman was charged with liquidating the Jews of Hungary. He had with him only 200 german SS! Mostly, the deeds were done by the Nazi collaborators.) Before saying Havdalah we also sang Hannah Senesh’s poem set to music, “Eili, Eili”. The whole service was a very appropriate way to end our tour and our last activity in Hungary. After Havdalah I threw the remaining wine into the Danube. It trickled down in a bright red color as it fell into the water. It looked to me like blood….i was spoofed. I also remembered my aunt telling me a story of some relative who was thrown into the river but managed to get away because she was a strong swimmer. I will need to check with her upon my return.
Finally, a boatride down the Danube, passing the bridges and seeing anew all the sides on both sides of the river. There were earphones to listen to explanations and it was interesting that it was different in Hebrew and in English. The Hebrew version mentioned the shoe display; it also mentioned that the nobel prize winners of Hungary were jewish. It also mentioned that Elizabeth Talyor stayed in one of the hotels, identifying her first as Jewish! None of this was found in the English explanation. Nothing sinister, I am sure, but I found it amusing. When the explanations were not playing, the waltzes of Richard Strauss were heard, including the Blue Danube (which I used to play on the piano and have surely danced on different occasions). Classical music is very much a part of the history of this city (including Bartok) and something else to investigate next time I am here.
I want to conclude with many thank yous. First, to Roz Landy, Mitch Malkus and whoever else might have been involved in allowing us to attend this amazing program and for their support and encouragement. I’m just sorry that Roz wasn’t able to join us, as I understand she at one point had considered this. Second, to Alan and Glynis for organizing what has truly been, for me, a life changing event. They are great organizers, of course, but they are also sincere and caring and fun people to be with. Third, to my new friends at the Lauder school, both students and teachers and, in particular, my counterpart, Gabor. I’m looking forward to being with them again next year and also to their visit to our school. Finally, to those with whom I participated in the trip. Yaffa Malashock from the Kushner school in New Jersey, who, ironically,I knew before any else in the group, as Yaffa was a teacher at JDS over 20 years ago. I have kept in touch with Yaffa through the years and I consider her among my closest friends. And, from JDS, my colleagues and now also my closest friends (whether they want it or not): Natalie, Rachel, Tori, Daniella, and Ben. We had so much fun this week. I am so fortunate to have been able to share this experience with you. Let’s keep in touch (in other words, see you 7:45 Monday morning!).
